Iraq Through My Camera Lens

Iraq, the land of the two rivers and ancient Mesopotamian empires is the perfect blend of different landscape terrains where mankind took their first steps toward reading, writing, creating laws and governance. Over the past four decades, Iraq’s spiraling political and security climate has substantially hindered the protection of its rich heritage, culture and peoples. Despite deteriorating conditions and my upbringing in the west, stories from my childhood of sentiment and love for Iraq – told to me by my parents – provoked a continuing and deep yearning to visit the land of my ancestors. In January 2018, I visited Iraq for the first time in 11 years.

I had the pleasure of joining a team of academics and museum curators to deliver a training programme organised by the Friends of Basrah Museum (museum in Basra is still spelt as Basrah) in partnership with The Ashmolean Museum, The Aga Khan Museum, Glasgow Museums, and The British Institute for the Study of Iraq, to train Iraqi museum and cultural heritage professionals. Yet while documenting the training, I discovered a world of culture that exists beyond the museum walls.

I set out to capture the side of Iraq that is not often seen, highlighting the people, the beautiful landscapes, and the famous Iraqi hospitality, with one day of cultural exploration:

The Journey

With the kind facilitation of the Director of the Basrah Museum, we visited the Chibayish Marshlands, located only 116km North-West of Basra. Having only heard of the Marshes, it certainly lived up to my expectations.

Half-way through our two-hour journey a blistering sandstorm struck. With the storm raging outside it did little to deter us or the locals who carried on with their day.

The Marshes

Our first stop was at a beautifully constructed Mudhif hybrid with brick walls and a reed ceiling where we were witness to a small crafts workshop organised to help train the local Marsh Arabs. This workshop was organised and run by Nature Iraq, a local non-governmental organisation working to protect, restore and preserve Iraq’s natural environment.

At the Mudhif, we experienced first-hand the famous Iraqi hospitality, which included tea, Masgouf and a Marsh Arab styled rice hikaka cooked on stone.

We met with the Nature Iraq’s Chibayish Office Managing Director who organised a number of boats to take us into the Marshes. With a sandstorm in full effect, only the locals’ indifference worked to persuade me to board the boat. While the nature spoke for itself, as everything in Iraq the beautiful Marshes were certainly made more appealing by the charm, generosity and kindness of its people.